We had a quick breakfast in the Garden Cafe and then headed out to explore North Kohala. We are staying out of the sun enjoying the vistas on our drive. We like to listen to local radio when we’re here. We love the mix of Hawaiian tunes, reggae, and contemporary popular music.
The end of the road is the Pohala Lookout over a verdant valley and black sand beach. We drive through older dilapidated towns populated by an interesting mix of Hawaiians, Chinese, surfer kids, and older hippies.
We turn down a dirt road to go to the Mo’okini Heiau, dated 480 AD, and dedicated to the war god “Ku.” It is a Holy Shrine and was kapu (forbidden) until recently. I don’t know what the status is on visiting the heiau now. There was talk about improving access and monitoring visitors. It’s almost like the locals don’t want tourists going there. The road was almost impassable at some points.
Once there we read any material available on the subject. There are diagrams and artists’ renditions of what the Heiau looked like back in its prime. It was well constructed out of millions of stacked stones with a straw and grass roof. There is a view of Mauai from this vantage point, but since it is overcast only the small tip of Haleakala is visible through the clouds.
There were lots of wars between the islands. Mauai was fighting with Hawaii. Human sacrifices were performed. I can feel it in the two large blood soaked stones that were used for decapitations. The history reveals that King Kamehameha invited the King of Mauai over for a party and then beheaded him and was able to take control of all the islands finally uniting them under his control.
We drive on to the next point of interest. Most people think we’re locals. We meet a group of middle school students on a field trip. They are friendly and talkative until they find out we’re mainlanders. “California? Get back!” they say with all the sting that only that age group can deliver effectively. It’s amusing because most of their parents are probably mainland transplants.
When we reach Hawi we feel that we’ve found another home. This funky little end of the road captures our hearts and we are again charmed by the little beauty. There is a huge gold statue of King Kamehameha overlooking the tip of Maui as if to say, “I rule!”
We visit some interesting local shops featuring local art and I find a used clothing store where I buy about thirty Hawaiian shirts in various children’s sizes for the play I am directing, South Pacific.
We head back to our hotel, take a quick swim in the pool and get ready for dinner at Le Soleil -the former Third Floor Secret we discovered in Waikiki. Horray! Naan Bread, Pate, Lobster Raviolis, Painted Bread with Sashimi and Soft Cheese, Blue Crab and Wild Rice Soup, Ceaser Salad with a little house of parmesian cheese on top, Opakapaka sauteed with fresh Green Beans, and a Papaya Tart with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Did I tell you that I love Chef Alan Wong?
Note: The Inland Road to Waimea from the coast is very Sonoma County; rolling green hills with cinder cones occasionally popping up here and there, roaming cattle and beautiful horses. A flock of butterflies is playing in some weeds by the side of the road. As we pass they all take flight at once. Auwe! Everyday there is something to praise here in paradise.
